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Barbarian days :a surfing life /

正題名/作者： Barbarian days :/ William Finnegan.

其他題名： a surfing life /

作者： Finnegan, William.

出版者： New York :Penguin Books,c2015.

面頁冊數： 447 p. :ill. ;21 cm.

附註： Pbk. ed.: 2016.

標題： Surfers - Biography. - United States -

ISBN ： 9780143109396 (pbk., 2016)

ISBN ： 9781594203473 (hbk., 2015)

LEADER 02749cam 2200217 a 450

001 236655

003 OCoLC

005 20161201051256.0

008 151021s2015 nyua 000 0 eng

020 $a9780143109396 (pbk., 2016)

020 $a9781594203473 (hbk., 2015)

035 $a00281693

050 00$aGV838.F58$bA3 2015

082 04$a797.3/2092$aB$223

090 $a797.32092/F497///UM056893

100 1 $aFinnegan, William.$3420276

245 10$aBarbarian days :$ba surfing life /$cWilliam Finnegan.

260 $aNew York :$bPenguin Books,$cc2015.

300 $a447 p. :$bill. ;$c21 cm.

500 $aPbk. ed.: 2016.

505 0 $aOff Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).

520 $aSurfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly -- he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui -- is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs.

586 $aPulitzer Prize for Biography or Autobiography, 2016

600 10$aFinnegan, William.$3420276

650 0$aSurfers$zUnited States$vBiography.$3420277

Finnegan, William.

Barbarian days :a surfing life /William Finnegan. - New York :Penguin Books,c2015. - 447 p. :ill. ;21 cm.

Pbk. ed.: 2016.

Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).

Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly -- he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui -- is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs.

Pulitzer Prize for Biography or Autobiography, 2016

ISBN: 9780143109396 (pbk., 2016)Subjects--Personal Names:

420276
Finnegan, William.
Subjects--Topical Terms:

420277
Surfers
--United States--Biography.

LC Class. No.: GV838.F58 / A3 2015

Dewey Class. No.: 797.3/2092